Mt. Aragats and Mt. Arailer
It was around 4 a.m. on the 2nd of June when we arrived at Yerevan. The good thing was that we could meet our friends at the airport. We felt, however, a bit drowsy after a night with no sleep. After picking up the cars from Hertz, a Daihatsu Terios and a Lada Niva, we proceeded to Sam and Marine's apartment in Yerevan to get a few hours sleep.
After lunch we headed NW of Yerevan towards Mount Aragats - with its 4,090 m the highest point in Armenia - for a first field trip. On our way up we already found blunt-nosed viper (Macrovipera lebetina - DOR), Caucasus green lizard (Lacerta strigata) and green toad (Bufo viridis). In fruiting trees there were groups of rosy starlings, that could sometimes be approached up to a few meters. These colourful birds were said to visit the Yerevan area this time of year to feed on mulberries, that indeed made some city roads slippery. Our first goal for that day was the area near Amberd fortress, on the southern slopes of the mountain. Near the fortress we were lucky to find several Transcaucasian rat snakes (Elaphe hohenackeri), which was new to us. Other species found included Erivanian meadow viper (Vipera eriwanensis - DOR), both Lacertas, Darevskia nairensis and Schmidt's whip snake (Hierophis schmidti - DOR). Red-billed chough was quite common here.
That evening we drove further up the mountain. As we proceeded, the road became worse, but the views better. Above 2,500 m a.s.l. snow appeared and we saw shore larks and alpine accentors along the road. The last kilometres of the road were muddy, and walls of snow sometimes reached 2 m. Our destination was a restaurant at the shores of Lake Kari at 3200 m a.s.l. It was surprisingly cold up there, and we were happy to have our winter coats with us. But inside we were warmed up by an Armenian country style meal with Hash - a thick soup based on cattle legs (including bones!) cooked for 18 hours - being the main dish.
We were a little disappointed by the power of the Lada Niva, so after we got home Sam went to Hertz and persuaded them to exchange the Lada for a Nissan Xtrail at no extra cost. This turned out to be a great deal!
In an attempt to find Armenian viper (Montivipera raddei) we decided two days later to visit Mount Arailer, another old vulcano, some 20 km east of Aragats. There were no roads on this mountain, so we prepared for a steep ascend to get to the right place. The first part of the hike was through grassland, heavily grazed by many herds of sheep and cows. In about one hour we reached a place with rocks and some higher vegetation. The area looked promising, and was known to be rich in species, but we only found few reptiles: Eriwanian meadow viper (Vipera eriwanensis), Dahl's whip snake (Platyceps najadum) and Levant green lizard (Lacerta media). Again, we blamed the hot and sunny conditions. Maybe an early morning visit would have given better results. We decided not to go any further up the mountain, and drive to Goravan to spend the rest of the day in de the semi-desert (see 'Goravan’).
| North Armenia | Mt. Aragats and Mt. Arailer | Urts Mountains | Goravan Sands | Georgia: Abastumani | East of Gyumri and Dilijan |
Table 1: observations on Aragats and Arailer mountains
|
Reptiles & amphibians |
|
06-2012 |
|
|
|
|
|
Marsh frog |
Pelophylax ridibundus |
2 |
|
Green Toad |
Bufo viridis |
1 |
|
Lemon-yellow tree frog |
Hyla savignyi |
calling |
|
Levant Green Lizard |
Lacerta media |
5 |
|
Caucasus Green Lizard |
Lacerta strigata |
3 |
|
|
Darevskia nairensis |
>10 |
|
Dahl’s whip snake |
Platyceps najadum |
1 |
|
Schmidt’s whip snake |
Hierophis schmidti |
1+1 DOR |
|
Transcaucasian rat snake |
Zamenis hohenackeri |
4 |
|
Erivanian meadow viper |
Vipera eriwanensis |
2 +1 DOR |
|
Blunt-nosed viper |
Macrovipera lebetina |
1 DOR |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Other highlights |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rose-coloured Starling |
Sturnus roseus |
>30 |
|
Red-billed Chough |
Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax |
1 |
|
Alpine Accentor |
Prunella collaris |
1 |
|
Shore Lark |
Eremophila alpestris |
3 |
|
Bonnelli’s Eagle |
Hieraaetus fasciatus |
1 |
|
|
|
|
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Arm12_00773_reis plannen
http://www.klooiplek.eu/images/trips/preview/1170.jpgPlanning the trip in the apartment of Marine, Samvel and Anni. Left to right: Marine, Bart, Ronald, Samvel, Guido and Arjan. Where's Ben? (behind the lens).
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Armenië_k-2012©BartSiebelink2012-4
http://www.klooiplek.eu/images/trips/preview/1137.jpgAn afternoon drive through busy Yerevan. The carwash is also the place where people have their oriental rugs cleaned. There's one hanging over the door.
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jurken406
http://www.klooiplek.eu/images/trips/preview/1142.jpgThe temptations of booming Yerevan.
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Arm12_01034_swifts and electric wires
http://www.klooiplek.eu/images/trips/preview/1189.jpgAnother impression of Yerevan: electric wires and swifts chasing insects between flat buildings made of volcanic tuff.
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Yerevan-metall©BartSiebelink
http://www.klooiplek.eu/images/trips/preview/1211.jpgThese vividly painted metal weather-proof containers can be seen all over the country.
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Armenië©BartSiebelink2012-3
http://www.klooiplek.eu/images/trips/preview/1138.jpgOur first afternoon trip to Mount Aragats, with an elevation of 4,090 m the highest point in Armenia. On the road through these scenic pasture lands we found in the late afternoon one Vipera eriwanensis that was freshly caught by a car.
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Arm12_00784
http://www.klooiplek.eu/images/trips/preview/1186.jpgBart and Guido have spotted something in a bush near Amberd fortress, a bit higher up the same road.
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slangenzoekenbijklooster612
http://www.klooiplek.eu/images/trips/preview/1114.jpgMore searching in the vicinity of Amberd. In the background S. Astvatsatsin (or Vahramashen) Church. A great setting for a herpetologist!
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P1050485_RL
http://www.klooiplek.eu/images/trips/preview/1192.jpgPhotographing Zamenis.
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Zamenis_Hohenackeri©Bart_Siebelink
http://www.klooiplek.eu/images/trips/preview/1140.jpgZamenis hohenackeri leaving its shelter.
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Zamenis_Hohenackeri©BartSiebelink
http://www.klooiplek.eu/images/trips/preview/1141.jpgWe found several young Zamenis hohenackeri on the slopes around the fortress. At first glance they resembled Coronella, but as you can see the head is notably different.
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hogesneeuw_RL
http://www.klooiplek.eu/images/trips/preview/1191.jpgWorking our way up on Mount Aragats. At his elevation we saw several horned larks (the Caucasian sub-species, Eremophila alpestris penicillata).
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Armenië©BartSiebelink2012-12
http://www.klooiplek.eu/images/trips/preview/1139.jpgSunset casted a spectaculair light on the evening clouds, adding an ominous lustre to the desolate landscape near Lake Kari, at 3200 m a.s.l.
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Armenië_Aragats©BartSiebelink2012-11
http://www.klooiplek.eu/images/trips/preview/1136.jpgWuthering heights at 3200 meter a.s.l.
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Arm12_00804_BV
http://www.klooiplek.eu/images/trips/preview/1190.jpgArmenian food is a delight, especially when it is freezing outside. This great meal was waiting for us in a small restaurant. Meals are typically accompanied by lavash (flatbread), fresh herbs and vegetables. The famous Hash (in the bowl below) was very special, although a bit heavy to some of us.
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Arm12_00940_BV
http://www.klooiplek.eu/images/trips/preview/1188.jpgHaving a chat with the gypsy family that watched our cars while we hiked up Mount Arailer.
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Armenie©BartSiebelink2012
http://www.klooiplek.eu/images/trips/preview/1230.jpgGiant poppies (Papaver pseudo-orientale) caught the attention on Arailers' grassy slopes. The hearts of these flowers were teeming with pollinating beetles that scratched the red color off with their tiny claws.
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Arailer©BartSiebelink
http://www.klooiplek.eu/images/trips/preview/1212.jpgDescending from mt Arailer. Armed with viper-proof leather gloves and clamps for the larger species i.e. Macrovipera lebetina and Montivipera raddei, both of which we dipped. Too hot already. But Lacerta media was abundant on these grassy slopes.
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L-media-ararat©BartSiebelink
http://www.klooiplek.eu/images/trips/preview/1231.jpgA female Lacerta media, against the backdrop of the iconic Ararat (admittedly the lizard was handled for a moment in order to make this picture).
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eriwaniensis612
http://www.klooiplek.eu/images/trips/preview/1123.jpgFinally we found a small specimen of Vipera eriwanensis too.
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Arailer©BartSiebelink
http://www.klooiplek.eu/images/trips/preview/1163.jpgUs descending the gentle slopes of mt. Arailer. Aside of the dirt road at the horizon you can (hardly) see a nomadic basis with yourts.
